Doubtful Sound and Fiordland

I took an overnight trip to go on a cruise of Doubtful Sound

The journey

I took a several hour long journey of two bus rides and a boat ride to get from Queenstown to Doubtful Sound (close to the popular Milford Sound). I really enjoyed looking out the windows, thinking, and admiring all the beauty.

We stopped at a small cafe next to an old train. They only had muffins and scones
and I asked if it was possible to eat a scone, which looked quite crumbly, without spilling
it everywhere on the bus. The cashier snapped back, "You're an adult, aren't you?"
Zing! (For the record, the crumbs were not able to be contained.)

There are so many photos I'm not sharing, so I hope you enjoy these highlights

Domesticated animals

New Zealand is particularly known for its sheep. In fact, back in 1982, there were over 70 million sheep compared to just 3.2 million residents. Humans are still outnumbered, but the ratio has declined dramatically. Now, there are 31 million sheep compared to 4.4 million people.

The hills are alive... with sheep!

There are also 2.3 cattle for every human. Dairy farming has taken off in recent years.
Sheep and cattle source: Stats New Zealand

New Zealand has the most commercial deer farming in the world.
Deer were originally imported for sport, but thrived and became pests.
The government tried to control the problem (people even used to hunt them
from helicopters) and then found that they could be captured and placed in farms.
Look up "bulldogging" for crazy stories of the early days. Source: Teara

Cruising

I added a new profession to my repertoire: sea captain.
Some boats now use joysticks, instead of the big wheels, for navigating

I sailed aboard the fiordland navigator

Going up the sound

Waterfalls

On the left is Browne Falls. By some metrics, it is the highest waterfall in New Zealand
and cascades down between 2,000-2,750 feet

There were lots of waterfalls throughout the journey

The water just keeps falling and falling and falling

Rain, rain, go away please stay

It drizzled on and off during the trip, which made
 the waterfalls even more spectacular

Plus, we were able to see a rainbow

Trees

 

Huge trees grow on the hills. However, as they get bigger, the hill can no longer support them and they fall over. In a domino effect, they take out a lot of trees below them. Over time, seeds fall and new trees grow and the cycle constantly repeats.

This tree was uprooted and fell down the hill

Sea life: sea lions

I chose Doubtful Sound over Milford Sound because you are supposed to see more animals. I was not disappointed.

We saw lots of sea lions:

King of the rock

Diving in!

It's hard to get on the rocks with the crashing waves

Sea life: dolphins

My favorite was when a pod of dolphins swam next to our boat, jumping in and out of the water.

Scoping out the situation

Breaching!

Doing flips

Morning mist

 

Other travelers
My favorite conversation was with an American who works as a military liaison with a country in Eastern Europe. When he met his European counterpart, the European said, “I wish you would invade us.” Not sure if he was walking into a trap, the diplomat said, “Why would you say that?” The European responded, “We would have no chance and you would wipe out our military in a matter of days with minimal damage. However, you would be stuck here for years trying to rebuild the country and you would run our country much better than we can: things would be built and there would be order.” Then they both laughed to defuse the situation, while awkwardly realizing the Eastern European was probably right.

While America has a lot to offer the world, the world has a lot to offer Americans. Most of the people I met were foreigners and I loved hearing their perspectives, sharing experiences together, and learning from them. As well, I enjoyed seeing where so many people lived and getting a glimpse into what made their home so special.

My new Dutch friends

We never actually spoke, but our hats were friends

My main crew. Next to me is a Kiwi who used to work in Stillwater, MN! He
and the Kiwi woman next to me are trail/nature guides in Fiordland so I spent
the evening hearing all the latest local gossip

We were packed in four to a cabin.
My roommates must be the butt of many jokes

Stunning views
Without hesitation, I'd say Doubtful Sound was the most beautiful place I've ever been. I hope you enjoyed this brief introduction!

Queenstown

Queenstown

After saying goodbye to S’wacky, I flew to Queenstown.

I typically like everything to be organized, but I intentionally decided to show up in Queenstown without a plan. The only reservation I had was my departing flight in a few days' time.  So when I landed, I grabbed some brochures and hopped on a bus for the middle of town. Once there, I talked to an agent at an information station, received a list of the names of many hostels, and started walking to find one.

I secured the last room in the hostel (and they had cheap wireless!)

Having no responsibilities, no plan, and no structure was freeing. Finding my way when dropped into a new environment boosted my self-esteem. 

Yet, I don't feel the need to repeat the experience. If I go somewhere, I want to experience the best that place has to offer instead of spending my time while I'm there trying to figure out what there is to see. A lot of the best opportunities can only be taken advantage of if planned in advance.

Fun fact

In the northern hemisphere, we always turn our clocks back an hour in November (fall for us) and an hour ahead in March. It’s easy to remember because you fall back and you spring ahead. New Zealand does the same thing, but the months are opposite. They “spring ahead” towards the end of the year (their spring) and “fall back” in April (their fall).

Fergburger

Tourists and Kiwis agree that the best restaurant in Queenstown is the burger joint Fergburger.

After being in Asia, it was unpleasant to go back to paying Western prices.
Every day in New Zealand cost as much as a week in Thailand

The burger was scrumptious and huge. It was so good that I ate the majority
of my meals in Queenstown at Fergburger

Sacrilegious, but delicious

The views

I enjoyed taking a gondola up to the top of the mountain.

Gondolas take tourists from near the center of the city
to the top of the mountain

From the top, the views are breathtaking

 

Can you spot the plane against the mountain?

Can you spot the helicopter? (hint it's right above the shadow on the hill)

 

Big boats slowing crossed the bay

I love how the city is nestled between mountains and a lake

The clouds hover just over the mountains

Adventure capital of the world

Queenstown is the adventure capital of the world and people come from all over to enjoy the hang gliding, helicopter rides, and sky diving among many activities. Queenstown is home to the first permanent commercial bungee jumping site and there are many places to jump around the island, including the top of the hill.

While I was admiring the view, I saw a guy about to bungee jump. As I stood poised with my camera, I waited and waited and waited. Eventually, he stepped back from the ledge and walked away.

Walk of shame

The worst part is that a lot of people wait for you to jump so as you take the long walk back towards the main lodge, you have to go through a walk of shame as everyone thinks you are a wimp and a coward while you are also wallowing in self-loathing for being a chicken.

The next guy jumped successfully

While these adrenaline inducing activities would be fun, they are not as fun to do alone. Since I didn't have a buddy with me, I stayed pretty tame during this visit in Queenstown. Life, like all journeys, is vastly improved when you have the right company.

Chasing the weather

Like any resort town, there is huge turnover in the population. Half of the people follow the sun and only come for the summer and the summer activities. The other half of people love the snow and they live in New Zealand during its winter and then go to Canada to work on the mountains there during the northern hemisphere’s winter months. As a Minnesotan, I appreciate all four seasons and would find it hard to move halfway around the world every six months.

I made new friends at a wedding last year. They had decided to quit their jobs
and travel around New Zealand for a year. While I was in Queenstown, I saw on their blog
they were there too and they generously gave me a ride to the airport. They are
a couple of the small percentage of people that stay for both the winter and summer seasons.